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Polki Jewellery: A Guide to Understanding Its Unique Craftsmanship

Puneet Anand

What is Polki? Polki refers to thin slices or peels of rough diamonds, lab-grown diamonds, or gemstones like yellow sapphires that are left over after cutting. These delicate slices were traditionally used in Kundan work, creating beautiful pieces known as Kundan jewellery.


an uncut diamond ready to be used for polka jewellery

The Origins of Kundan Jewellery Kundan jewellery typically used 22-carat gold housings and featured silver foil on a substance called "laakh." Laakh was placed inside the hollow sections of jewellery pieces, which were sealed at the bottom. The Polki slice or stone would rest on top, secured with pure gold foil (known as Kundan) that clung to the stone and the walls of the piece. This is where the name "Kundan Jewellery" originated.

gold foil to be used in Kundan jewellery

Innovation in Kundan Work: Lighter and Affordable Polki Jewellery To make the jewellery lighter and more affordable, Polki stones were later set in copper or brass housings, replacing the heavy gold settings. An aluminium reflector was fused into the housing, enhancing the brilliance of the stones by reflecting more light.


brass/ copper wires used in polki setting

The Modern Polki Jewellery Today, Polki stones are often set in 14-carat gold jewellery without the base plate that once sealed Kundan jewellery pieces. These Polki-adorned necklaces, earrings, and bangles are now known as Polki Jewellery.


AI generate image of polka earrings with emeralds in the middle

Polki vs. Kundan: What’s the Difference? Polki refers specifically to thin slices of natural or lab-grown diamonds, yellow sapphires, or moissanite. When these stones are set into jewellery, the result is called Polki Jewellery. In contrast, Kundan jewellery involves using pure gold foil to set the stones. While Kundan jewellery can feature Polki stones, Polki Jewellery does not necessarily include Kundan. Key Characteristics of Polki Jewellery

  • Materials: Thin diamond slices (natural or lab-grown), yellow sapphires, or moissanite

  • Settings: Typically 14-carat gold, copper, or brass

  • Reflector: Silver or aluminium foil fused into the setting to enhance the stone's brilliance


Which would you prefer ?

  • Polki jewellery

  • Kundan Jewellery


 
 
 

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